The new ‘new thing’

A last minute job last week for Time Out took me down the road on the bus to a residential pocket of North London flanked by Stoke Newington, Highbury and Cannonbury.

In an area not known for it’s destination dining, Primeur is resolutely a neighbourhood restaurant with its quirky no-phone, in-person only bookings policy.

Although it had only been open a couple of weeks, it already had the assured feel of a local favourite. A couple of early walk-ins dropped by on the way home for a glass of wine and couple of plates. The welcoming banter gave them away as regulars already.

After a quiet start, it was anything but by about 8.30pm. It seemed like someone had rung the dinner bell outside – the place was full and the kitchen slammed with orders.

The food is ‘honest’ and seasonal, matched by an ever changing wine list from its extensive cellar. In an interview, chef, David Gingell has described the restaurant ‘like a visit to your grandmother’s house for a great dinner.’

So the ‘new thing’ seems to be just old-fashioned good times.